Unexpected Zim

The place is breathtaking. The views are endless. Wildlife is abundant all around you. For not one moment is there no bird call. The evening is so black that you can see every star. Sitting well above the natural surroundings the sun disappears even before reaching the horizon. Majestic rock formations hold the warmth of the day far into the night. The laziness of David Shepard Camp or now known as Chibila Camp, has drawn us to six days stay. We stumbled upon this wonderful haven while looking for a place suitable for another bush camp. Perched on top of a hill with wonderful trees to block out the heat of the day, the cool breeze that blows every now and again and the remoteness beckons you to stay even longer.

For two days we had company of an elderly man named Nick, from Lusaka. When he left the place became ours. We have literally done as we have pleased. Nobody to please or to make sure you are not sitting in somebody else’s chair. No bathroom to share. We have played card games to our fulfillment. Done crossword puzzles until the ink ran out. Lazed on deck beds watching the local fishermen paddling across the lake with their small dugouts loaded with mouthwatering Breen. We were privileged to have for a lunch freshly caught fish from that morning. We were also treated with fish that evening. Aaron who is a local who works here is also a great chef. He grilled both our meals to perfection. When Nick left so did the fish. Back to the rump steak and baked potato meals. I am not complaining.

We left K.M. two days after Shane and Siobhan left. We were to meet in Livingstone in Zambia at the Vic Falls.
I had intended to travel on a dirt road that runs along the Zambezi River to Kasangulu which is the meeting place of four countries namely Namibia, Zambia, Botswana and the famous Zimbabwe. Well the road hardly exists any more. Thirty kilometers down a dead end. Yippee. We stopped to get some directions to this road that appears on our maps and they all came to the same conclusion. We were on it. Because of the floods most roads that travel alongside a river are gone. It was under repair but we were not waiting. This must be an Africa thing. There were seven government staff from the roads department who all were sitting under a tree watching one colleague do the work. We were there for about fifteen minutes with the truckers getting info. He eventually called to the roads department staff who told us to go back to the tar road, turn left to Ngoma, which is the border crossing and just before reaching Ngoma we were to turn left onto a dirt road which would take us to where we were trying to get to. In a nutshell it did not exist. Now was the problem. To enter Botswana was going to be a problem for our preciously hand picked meat from the K.M. butchery. To travel all the way back to K.M. to cross there was also a problem. We decide to chance Botswana. Just maybe it was all hype. To our pleasant surprise we were not ripped off at all getting thru the customs and migration offices that we were told about. In fact it was very pleasant compared to some of them we have had to endure.
The foot and mouth disease control point check was going to be our problem. All our meat. The only thing she confiscated was our fresh milk. We did have to dip our feet in some sorry looking ointment if that was what it was. Probably some sangomas concoction. Wonder if it ever stopped infections getting through. I then had to drive through hole like a cattle dip. With tears in my eyes what is the point when you see another vehicle just drive right through. You think I was going to tell her about all our meat. Nah never. The best part of this encounter with the Botswana border crossing was the sunset. Spiffing I say spiffing. Very nice.

We made the crossing by about ten minutes otherwise we were sleeping in no mans land. As it was we could not find a campsite that had place for us and landed up camping at the entrance to the exit of the Botswana border crossing to Zambia. All the campsites were full. We drove around some of them just amazed at the amount of tourists there are here. I have never seen so many tour busses or trucks. In retrospect I am greatly pleased that we camped at the border gate. We missed all the chaos in the morning to get through customs etc. as we were up early and first through to the ferry which can get snowed under. It is amazing to see nothing in the evening except the elephant that kept us company the whole evening right up until we entered the gate and then thousands of people in the daytime at a ferry. I suppose it is a very important crossing from south to north in the region. Visa versa. Apparently mr mgabe of Zimbabwe will not co-operate with the other three countries in building a bridge. he wants to know what is in for him. Oh well we at least were able to get to travel across on a ferry. Quite nice, but too fast. All over in ten minutes then welcome to another hectic customs this time in Zambia. Again I was so glad we camped at the gate. Through first is the only way.

If you ever forget to change money, don’t worry – no fear, especially when fifty money hungry swapping dudes come near. Have you ever been touched when you never want to be touched? Don’t come here then. You want true, honest and just exchange rates. Not here. Or do you need a fantastic insurance deal to cover only third party. Not here. Maybe its peace and quiet, a time to reflect on things gone by, maybe of the wide open spaces and the slow pace of life. Definitely not here.

Have you ever driven through the middle of a road with trucks one kilometer on either side of the road all waiting to get across the ferry. Somebody said that some of those trucks would only get through in two or three days time. Cars just come right up to the front and push in. Only one truck is allowed on the ferry at a time and four cars can accompany it.
Well off we went to see this thundering white cloud in the sky. This gigantic hole in the earth that swallows all up. That is until you have seen it from all the angles on offer by a wonderful assortment of paths and bridges to cross through a small yet beautiful rainforest. Walking around on these paths requires a raincoat of some sort. Nice that they mention this to you. We were drenched yet we looked and gazed and wondered around trying to see every angle. Wonder if they will ever make a memory card big enough. Photo photo or rather click click click. We have photos for you too if you want. R1 a shot. Nah get your own.

Now as Shane had left us a couple of days ago and we all were going to Kafue National Park we did a bit of shopping for food (Zambia shopping list…”bring your own” reason? …cost) and then hightailed it to try and catch them up. Unbeknown to us he was sick and still in Livingstone in a campsite somewhere. We did not even think to look in a site somewhere. We did try to phone and we did sms twice to no avail.

Well seems like we have eventually split. Tell you later.
That evening we camped in a remote little place in the world called the Southern gate. A small, but effective in taking your money, gate to the park. To get to this gate you will need to turn off the T1 at Kalomo. Left at the hotel, right at T junction, immediately left again, cross the rickety bridge and proceed to the next T junction where you turn left again. After that you guess. We did. We got there eventually. Oh by trial and error. You can ask the locals but don’t point or even offer them a clue. It’s yes otherwise. Trust me Zambia where the fuel price is an astonishing R11. per litre you do not need to drive the same road twice.

We met a British couple (doctors) in a Landy, good people, who have traveled well. Also good. On the same road, also good. Going the same way, to the same place. Good too. We were all going to camp at the entrance to the park which seemed good but they didn’t get there that evening. Turned out good because we managed to have a shower from our built in shower, which is also good. Good. We did see them in the morning at the gate. We said good morning. We parted ways there with a goodbye and haven’t seen or heard from them since. Not too good.

The southern part of the park has been overrun with poachers. They have scared the animals so much that the animals run away at the sound of your vehicle. [Karen: The tsetse flies don’t. It also has good bird life, and we did get charged by a derelict old cow - elephant that is.]

The fences that were there are so dilapidated that even a dinosaur could fit through. If there were any giraffes, that would not have been a problem. Over and away. The scenery is trees, bush, shrubs, grass, sand, a couple of dongas and little else. Why bother. Playing jukskei would be more entertaining. As Mark would say”Id rather watch paint dry”. Now who in the earth said come here? Maybe in the north it might be better but who pays. Seems like Kafue N.P. isn’t so fantastic as mentioned hundreds of time. Do I risk wasting our money or rather spend it on a hot air balloon trip over the Serengeti. Ahh the second one.

We left K.N.P. at Msuzi gate where we are at the moment just down the road. As the 1st paragraph above describes this place, we are close to heaven. It is truly magnificent. If we could stay here longer we would.
I mentioned the split earlier, well it seems we have. After a call from Shane who now is 250km north of Lusaka and heading into Malawi, and we haven’t even seen Zambia, neither has he, I think honestly we are on our own. Any volunteers? We are nice. In some ways this is better and in some ways not. The nice part of this is that we can at least travel at our own pace.

Sometimes like now sitting over the laptop wondering about all our family and friends, our work colleagues and our given away dogs and one cat (almost forgot him or her) I wonder what it would be like being back at home. Sitting watching tv. Maybe visiting or having visitors, 21.46 now probably in bed. I want to come home.
Nah jokes a little tender moment. Not bad for a ballie. Ish… where has time flown? Back to reality. You aren’t here and not coming. Onward we go.

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We left Chibila sadly as this was a refreshing time. We were going to travel alongside the Kafue river right up to Lusaka but this didn’t happen. The dam wall drive was very nice, especially the photo opportunities. Signs all over the place stating “no photographing.” And then close by an army or policeman with a rifle, probably never been used or no bullets in. But who takes a chance? It is really nervous seeing all these guys with guns all over the place. They I am sure could really get away with murder if they so desired.

We found the turn-off that is taken to travel on one of the most unused roads in Zambia or in Africa. Not a wise decision to take alone. This route that we took was supposed to be a two day trip. We did it in one. We did arrive in Lusaka at midnight though. On the way we were going to be ripped off when we wanted to cross the river by ferry. More than twice the cost. I reversed off the ferry and drove off.

The roads from there were the bad ones. The ferry route was definitely the easier. Well we saw a lot off country which is beautiful.

I played a game of soccer with some locals who all at the same time run for the ball no matter where the ball is on the field. It must be quite funny watching this. Not the average soccer game.

In this region we saw a lot of local homes that have wrap around verandahs. Some pommie influence?

The area gets water logged in the flood period just by the look of the ground. We didn’t make The Blue Lagoon Park where we were hoping to see some animals. It started getting too dark so a Graham thing happened. A short cut was invented. It was short in distance but a lot longer in time. It was fun. Say no more.

Lusaka is amazing in so many ways. I really wouldn’t want to live here but for the time that we were forced to stay, it was interesting.

Firstly the people are so friendly you want to know what they want. All they want to know is where you are from, where are you going and “safe journey”. They are really lovely people.

Crime is almost non-existent. Same as before there are police all over the place with guns. Not wise to start anything.

We stayed at Eureka campsite which is definitely the place to stay at when passing through this region. In the thirteen days that we were trapped there due to many reasons we saw and met so many over Landers from all over the world. We even met up with Simon and Tamara who we met in Cape Town three months earlier. Small world.
A couple who have recently tied the knot who doze most of the day away were set up in the campsite. Almost permanently. We have come to know them well and will see them again one day in Australia. Tyson and Alison had car trouble as yours truly did. Mine not as bad as theirs. Three weeks later from when we met them with their problems their car is still a problem. They came from USA where they worked, for a trip in a camper van bought in Cape Town. On two cylinders and with no centre bearing at all on the cam after so many services all over the place they could go no longer. Well done to all the mechanics that worked on that car. Useless thieves. I saw the cam. Where the bearing sits, the cam was worn away by about a centre meter all round. Amazing that they even got this far. Well they eventually got a new used engine put in. The same day as they got the car back we were all going to go to some friends we met at the camp site. We didn’t get to go that day. The sparkplug came out. Whoever worked on that motor somewhere in the past decided to glue the plug in after stripping the head. Another couple of days before all supposedly would be well.Back to our stay before heading to Zimbabwe. Yip we are in Zimbabwe. Bobs land.

Eureka camp site has made us many friends especially some Zimbabwean families who I admire and am dumbfounded why they even stay in that place. Starting from Dougie, Jamie and Shaun Whyte family who are rally drivers. They are also avid party people. Any excuse to start a party. In the eight days we stayed in Zim I really don’t think there was a day that something was not on the go. Much to the delight of Tyson who is definitely a party addict.
Archie and his wife Maryanne who we were privileged to stay with. They have two wonderful children: Craig and Haylee. Craig and I managed to put in some much needed computer car racing time. Haylee reminded us so much of our nieces back home.
Gordon Mackay who I landed up playing golf with in Zim with Dave, Miles and Ty.
Dave, Miles, Anthony, Mike, and Neil who we saw at some of the parties in Zim are mechanics, navigators and friends of Jamie, Shaun and Gordon who are the drivers.I was privileged enough to have a ride in Shaun’s car with him. We went to their weekend events with them and landed up helping them a bit. When Shaun’s car had broken something through something they managed to fix that something by the wheel. After that something was fixed they strapped me in the passenger seat, prayed and said goodbye. At a hundred and sixty on a bad bad bad dirt track we flew. Beautiful. It was a thrill to be in that chair. Brilliant birthday present. Sitting next to the current S.A. super bike champion in a rally car at 160km/h is still my highlight of this trip so far.

Karen and I were sitting chatting one day, mentioning how nice it would be to see some friends from church back home on a LTT up here in Malawi or somewhere. Now I don’t want this to be an evangelical blog site where all I am going to tell you is about God every chapter or paragraph but when a group of people drive into campsite two hours later from when we where chatting about this and they so happen to be friends from South Africa and on a Outreach I can only but help think of God right now. Absolutely amazing is all I can say.

Karen used to work with Robin Moodley and Gareth Frow. We know Mike and Megan Mills from ten years ago. Jeremy Dirksen a golfer of note and his family we have known for ten years or so. This was fantastic. The others in the group we have come to know in the couple of days we were together. I think I am definitely going to talk about friends more often.
It was a sad day when they drove out of our little world. Maybe in a little while we will see some friends in Malawi.
In the time that we have stayed here Dougie and his family have entertained us and it was going to be hard saying goodbye.

Well they managed to convince us to come back to Zim and we did. We relaxed most of the time which was great considering our hectic schedule in front of us. Mana Pools for a week. In fact this portion I am typing is with this view. Hippo blowing through their noses every now and again is almost the only noise here.

Back to Eureka. There are so many other people who we met that are traveling. Some for a sixteen-day three-country tour that I can’t imagine what they must feel like when they get back to work. Some are overlanders doing the real thing. Very few though. A lot of non profit organizations think they need to get Zambia helped when their own countries are messed up. Strange. More like a free holiday if you ask me. we did meet a bunch of guys and girls from the UK who are here for hospice, building a playground for the kids. Jamie and Danny from Kent area were fantastic. every time i had no drink in my hand they insisted on getting me one. sadly we parted . they off to Livingstone, we to Kafue. we will see them in the UK one day.

Pappu who is a local Mechanic who fixed my car also fixed Tyson’s car yet on our way to Zim we separated so we could see Kariba which was lovely except the prices and Ty and Ali went direct to Harare. Unbelievably we saw them at the entrance to the Mana Pools greater park area. They had been towed through the park by a truck. Their timing was out. Long story short, we towed them 300km to Harare. We arrived a day later.

Unluckily for them, on their way to South Africa later it broke down again. This time worse. Never drive an air cooled campervan. I wonder what they did to it.

Zim is bad, really bad. I am amazed that people even stay there. We heard all the talk but never imagined it to be as bad as it is. We went to countless shops while we were there and some of them I am sure are selling their shelves. Who is going to buy them I don’t know as there is very little to put on them. Sorry to offend some but uncle bob has ruined that country. You should see the queues for bread or flour. In eight days stay: no coke. That is bad. Sugar, soap, beer, petrol, rice, all bread related items, milk, meat, all these and more you need to go a long way to find them if you are lucky. We in fact went back to Lusaka in Zambia to shop before we went to Mana Pools back in Zim. [Karen: also many power cuts. No water and no mix juice (or any juice at all) but plenty of wine and hard liquor?]

We have been here four days so far and little to impress me at least. Yes it is relaxing to sit here by the river and watch time fly past. But we came to see the LION, leopard, cheetah. They must have all run away. Two problems are worth mentioning here in this place. Not enough roads to travel. Especially by the river. Then the few roads that do exist, some of them you cannot go on them. Restricted. No entry. Residents only. Private property. Road closed. Permit required. The list could go on but that is what they have used. In fact from the lower section of the river to the top you can only go about fifteen km. of which very little is even next to the river. Most of the time the road is a km away. From the river inland is about three km if. Oh you are allowed to walk. Mmmmm. Come eat me kitten. Remember no weapons allowed.
Maybe by the time we have left here I may have to change my outlook. [Karen: I have to interject - I loved Mana. It is teeming with wildlife – sure no cats, but plenty buck and hippo, ellies, crocs, birds. And we saw a badger really close and a side-striped jackal twice!] .

In the mean time I will just have to pray and hope the lion comes to me. Probably the best part is the fact that any animal can walk up to you where you camp. We have had buffalo and elephant here pretty much all of the time.

In front of us all the time has been about ten to fifteen hippo. Lazy animals. Stranded on an island in front of us are two elephants. They just walk up and down eating what they can. Making me dizzy.

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Just to let you know that six days have past from after the dot after dizzy above.The elephants who I thought were stranded were in fact just enjoying a holiday, say like you would in Mauritius. Fly in, they swam, park off, they are in a park, eat food and drink, they do, get away from all the hussle and bussle from work, well they get away from the lion. Let’s just say that this island is their holiday.

This lion that I mentioned that would have to come to us, it did. Not as close as I would have liked, but within a km. We walked to it, said hello and goodbye, and strolled back to camp. It was kind of lazy. It lifted its head, flicked a tail, closed its eyes and blew us out of its mind by thinking of Impala steaks. I think I am going to watch Lion King again.

[Karen: Just kidding – above photo is actually a log – but I bet it gotcha just like it did us. Here’s the real deal…]

Other from that, this portion of Mana Pools was not very exiting as far as getting to see anything other than elephant hippo waterbuck and impala. [Karen: And of course the nocturnal visits by the hyena, who carried off our food ammo box (which Graham bravely chased after and retrieved) and sniffed a little too closely to the mozzie net which was the only thing between by my toes and it’s powerful jaws!]
Archie arrived a day earlier than what we expected which was great. Scottie and his daughter Charlie were with him which was also a pleasant surprise. They know this area like the back of their hands. We still didn’t see anything else though.

We left with them to a small spring in the Zambezi valley near Mana pools. This is probably the closest to living in the wild as you will ever get. No fences no guards no nothing. You in fact need to dig your own toilet. Everything that you need, you bring in. When you leave, you leave it as it would be in the bush. Only footprints. There are two camps and an operator’s campsite. Nothing else. We are extremely grateful to the guys for inviting us to stay with them.

We stayed two nights in this small but active place. On a dry riverbed which has a seep or spring upstream about 7 or 8 hundred meters from where we were camped the water manages to get to us and maybe a little past. When animals drink upstream the water stops flowing. Every animal in a 15-odd kilometer radius needs to come here for water. It is the centre of attraction in this part of Mana Pools.

You hide in the bush to allow every sort of animal you can imagine to come past you for a drink all day and night.

We dug a handful of holes for water to seep in so we could at least cool down, wash dishes and fill the shower bags.

In the evening the elephant come and clean out the water in one snort. Fortunately you do not have to wait too long for it to fill up again.

In this place you do definitely need a gun or rather a rifle and also someone who knows when to shoot. We were blessed with Rod. He has been coming to this spring for over ten years. He is a guide and also has a rifle. Important when walking in the bush. We had two rifles as Archie brought his also.

On one of our numerous game walks far into the bush to get to know the lion! (jokes) We did stumble onto them way too close for comfort. In the bush they use the term “comfort zone”. Well we were way too far well within the point of no use but shoot the thing dead zone.

Six lion not more than ten meters from me and even less from Rod, who was in front, were sleeping under a Baobab tree. Rod’s expression on his face when coming around a dense shrub, seeing the lion, turning to get us out of there will forever be funny to me, obviously not at the time seeing as I was second on line on the menu – had anything happened. Later he said had they have woken at that moment, they would have got a fright and either fled or attacked so swiftly that Rod and Archie would have got off one shot each and then six – or four, if accurate shooting – lions would have decimated us. Ten juicy snacks. Charlie, Scottie’s daughter had to open her mouth loudly to know why we were coming back. Luckily we were far enough away when that happened because the lion came awake. One on all fours.

The next day we witnessed seven lion trying to bring down Buffalo not more than two hundred meters away from where we were watching.

Lion move quickly. In fact let’s rather change that too extremely, efficiently, expertly and decisively.
We humans would have been extinct long ago had we not been given brains.
On one of our walks through this dusty, dry region yours truly spotted the find of the decade. I spotted something way off in the distance running like a cat does. On inspection through binocs I found two cheetahs. Yip. Two cheetahs just in case you think I miss-spelt the word impala.

People including Rod who works here have been coming here for ten years and have never seen them. Me in the second day spot this find. Archie said a couple of times that he would shoot me if I find leopard. Maybe because it was meant to be we saw black crows and a timid bush buck, which also have never been seen here before – at least not by the crowd who were with us.
Rod, George, Hansie, Scottie and Archie have over fifty years combined together of trips to this place and not seen these animals before. Incredible is all I have to say.
In the evenings we would sit by the river and watch the elephant walk past us and to drink. Often they would stand close to our light range or either walk so close, ten meters, that we would scatter just in case.

All in all this is truly a remarkable place. Get hold of Steve Pope if you can and never miss an opportunity to get there if possible.
Highlight number two so far for me.

We were going to go back to Mana Pools in eight days time but I think we have ruined the opportunity. There is a game count happening on full moon. One a year. Rod heads this up for the parks board. He has said we would be able to get to go with Archie if we wanted, to a waterhole somewhere deep in Mana Pools.
Unfortunately when we were going through the Zimbabwe border to Zambia we were harassed by two new-on-the-job police clearing staff. In short at the Pinetown Police Station back in S.A. before we left we inquired about a police clearance certificate. We were told we don’t need one as the car is in our name and all our paper work is in order. Well these two police okes just didn’t budge. Maybe they expected us to pay. Well no way that was going to happen. In the end both of them calling us liars I packed the documents away, as this was going nowhere, and walked out of their office. We went to the car got in and drove right through the border. I half expected to get shot. We didn’t. On the Zambian side I was I bit nervous just in case the Zims rushed across but they did not. Right now if God asked me to say one person had to die right now it would be bob. We all know who that is.

Well life goes on. We are at Eureka again right now. We love this place and to think that when we, Shane and us planned the trip we where going to go right through in one or two days at most. Zambia is a wonderful country. Just a pity about the cost.

Camping here at Eureka has been wonderful in a couple of ways. To just chill and not stress about getting anywhere too fast or rush anywhere is wonderful. To meet all the people that we have is also an experience worth mentioning. Eric and Amia have been on the road for fifteen months now. On their way to the Cape but will only get there in another two to three months time. They are on bicycles. From Europe through to the Cape via the west of Africa. That’s bravery. Their carefully selected items that they are able to cart on the bikes would fit in two ammo boxes in my landy. I have eleven ammo boxes plus other space. Now if you ask me to do that at this age. Nah. Well maybe if there was no other way. I don’t know how I’ll fit the shower though.
Amia was a bit sick when we met them so they hung around for another night which was nice as we got to chat with them more. All I can say is that I admire their tenacity to complete this trip. 27000km is what they have covered on bikes so far.

We hope to see them somewhere up the east coast or in Europe.

We met another couple who have traveled pretty much the same route as the bikers but in four months and in a landy of course. From Scotland, close to Edinburgh, they are finishing in Kenya where they will be living next to the Masai Mara where they are building a lodge.
Hoping that we will see them later.
For us we are off to the Kafue National Park again but the northern section this time.

~ by zatouk on September 18, 2007.