Where the Rand is King.

Where the Rand is King.

Yip I have found a place where our South African Rand gets value for money. That comes later.

We left Lilongwe to go to Cape Maclear where we were to meet everyone again. The three girls; Sebastian; Christian; Anthony and us. On the way we tried to get our passports extended but they seem to enjoy one and a half hours lunch time in these parts. We would leave empty handed but hopefully get it done in Cape Maclear. On the way down we drove past a group of trading stores where the locals trade their carvings. Some of the carpenters here are brilliant. Their sculptures are worth every penny. We decided to buy a statue. We are to send it home with some people. This is no ordinary statue. We have called him Samson. He is large. In fact he is almost as tall as Karen. Karen also got bruises on her right shoulder. We had to drive 100km with him wedged on top of our fridge and protruding to the front of the landy. All the way we had to hold him from smashing the windscreen or falling to the floor. It was heavy going but one day you may see him and understand. My left arm muscles grew some. I think. We also managed to trade some of our items we had brought from S.A. for some bowls and another statue but not as large as Samson but just as heavy. He is carved from ebony and is heavy. I may use him to hold a house down one day.

We were last in Cape Maclear nine years ago and this place has almost not changed at all. It is virtually the same as before. The only difference that I could see was that Fat Monkeys now existed which is the place where we stayed. For three nights we stayed with Sebastian, Christian and Anthony. I learnt how to play Backgammon with the guys and now am hooked. Any competition out there?

Most of our time we had to sit under the shade. The locals hear are poor in a way and extremely rich as in scenery. It is very refreshing to sit on the sand in front of the campsite and watch the day pass by. Hundreds of people just lie on the sand and watch a couple of fisherman work. The boats at night time are mostly anchored of the islands while the guys are fishing with nets. They use paraffin lamps to attract the fish into their nets.

In the mornings you were out of the tent very early. In fact we wake up when the sun rises over the crest of the horizon. Around four thirty to five o clock and you are drinking coffee already.

We ate well while with Sebastian and Christian. Hope to catch up with them some place again as we need the good food again. With them we have had homemade pizzas, and plenty of them that we could not even finish them. And they were good. We have had homemade rolls with homemade burger patties. Also brilliant. I made a potjie as mentioned before. And Karen made her speciality, mince and noodles. Nyum…

I landed up bartering on behalf of the lot of us which eventually became eleven people for the boat cruise of a lifetime. Normal price is 2800 kw per person and we paid 1700 per person. Well done Graham. We had fish galore and lots of it.

Rice and veggies which was all cooked on a fire on an island out on the lake while we snorkelled and sunbathed. We then took a trip around the island to feed the fish eagles. They dive down off the trees high up when you throw the fish for them. We then travelled to the point of Cape Maclear where we snorkelled and had sun downers then came back in the dark. A full day of relaxing enjoyment was finished.

We picked the girls up in Monkey Bay where we managed to extend our passports. I did not think to extend the car and really wish the guy had mentioned something. I had so many problems at the border on the way out to Mozambique and had to pay ten thousand kwacha for two days for the car. An absolute rip off. Put down to school fees.

Somebody along our travels had mentioned to us that there were huge rock formations up somewhere by Lachinga. We decided that we were going to Pemba and so go up to see the rocks then travel from there across to Pemba. Four or five hours later we reached Lachinga and while there one of the locals told us we were in the wrong place. In fact the place where these rock formations are is in Nampula way south of us. Well what to do except continue to Pemba.

We kindly ran out of diesel none other than at the exact place. I promise you we ran out not more than one meter from the petrol garage if that is what you call it.

Three days later we arrived. The roads are horrendous. Two bush camps on the way really tried the girls who haven’t done this sort of thing too often. I must admit they held up well especially when the one night while sleeping outside on the floor there a Hyena was howling in the vicinity. Again our shower system was a blessing although no hot water was required here. The water is naturally hot. Or rather warm. While sleeping outside on the floor when you look up all you see is one billion and twenty six thousand and four hundred and twelve stars. Oh dear one shooting star, change the number again. It is a humbling feeling when you see the entire expanse up there and you realise how tiny you are. Watching as a satellite passes overhead (Big Brother Watching always), you also understand how clever we really are. What next? Space hotel somewhere.

In Pemba we have been staying at Russell’s Place. Russell who owns the place has been doing renovations and I managed to help.

 Anthony and the girls left us to go to Ibo Island but we decided not to go. Later I have found out that it was not as good as they expected. I at least put in some many hours work with Matt and Dave and Luke.

There are lots of travellers who work here for their keep. I have managed to earn some free days here. The sea here is so warm all you need to do is take soap and you have a bath. After working the day all you want to do is jump into the ocean but the water is so warm it doesn’t help too much. I am not whinging. Just stating a fact.

Karen and I decided to go to the internet the other day which was free incredibly. Because of this we landed up having lunch there. My sandwiches were good. Karen’s seafood platter was mouth watering and huge and cheap. Yip cheap. We have eaten the last five or six evening’s hearty healthy meals here at Russell’s. For the price of things here we have not taken anything out of our freezer. Pemba so far is a good place for South Africans to get value for money. We unfortunately cannot stay here forever. Or maybe we can.

 ”The ghosts of Pemba….”

We took a trip down the coast to some friends of Russell’s. Carlos’s place is right on the eastern coastline of Pemba. The water was so warm it was almost unbearable. I could not believe water in the ocean got as warm as this. It must have been about forty degrees. The water is crystal clear though. We stayed there for the rest of the day and then returned with Russell back to his place where we were treated to a great dinner. Buffet was served and the prize was a large large fishy.

At Russell’s place I kindly helped them to get a large pole beam into place high up on top of two upright poles. It was high and so unsafe I must have broken one hundred safety rules. It was also scary on both sides where I landed up working for hours trying to get this pole safely set in position. No safety belt or anything was available. I was asking for over a week for scaffolding in which we needed in order to work on the top of this beam I placed. I eventually was given some scaffolding but too late. We only had two days in which we were able to work before we left. Nonetheless a milestone had been achieved. I also started with the bamboo beams which were to be placed right around the roof. Maybe one day I may be able to see this bar complete. It is going to be a magnificent structure.

We left on Saturday. There were thirteen people who we had got to know over the last couple of weeks at Russell’s that also left on Saturday. A mass evacuation. The only person that stayed was JJ who knows everything there is to know. One of those sorts of people. Good luck Russell. We dropped the girls off at the airport with Luke and Catherine and headed for the bush. Namapa to Lurio is a “road less travelled”. Why? We found out. It is less than a hundred kms to Lurio but it took us three days.

The first forty or so km’s is fine dirt tracks but from there on we had some fun. We landed up with eight locals hacking bush and trees and fitting large rocks into holes in order for us to pass. When we landed up stuck, we drove back to the first village where we had fun getting them to understand our predicament. For some money they agreed to see us through. At first the eight guys were so eager to hack everything that stood anywhere near where the vehicles were to pass. Even three odd meters away from the road. It took some time for me to get them to understand where I needed them to cut. I landed up walking this entire route in front with the locals, showing them where to hack, while Anthony and Karen brought the cars through. Karen did a magnificent job getting the Landy through some of the obstacles. Pretty much of this was 4X4 terrain and a couple of times even Anthony was on three wheels.

I am impressed with my wife. At one stage she did get a bit overwhelmed because everyone was watching her negotiate a section which was difficult. In the end we said our goodbyes to the guys ten odd kms down the road. We had taken six hours to travel 10kms. We slept almost where we were.

The next day was easier and we reached Lurio by noon. From there we went to Memba. And then to Ponte Nangata where we camped for two days right on the beach.

Dinner both nights was freshly caught fish by the local fisherman braaied on coals. Both fish were large and we weren’t able to finish the second one and had lunch the following day with it.

On the way into a village we passed a soccer match. Obviously I could not overlook this and we had to stop so I could play. I was finished when we finally decided to carry on finding a place to sleep that evening. We passed through another village where another game was being played, this time with larger guys. Yip we stopped because yours truly had to play.

The guys were pretty good and yip I was getting tired quickly. One good thing was the crowd. One strange looking guy playing soccer and the whole village turns out to watch and cheer. They all cheer even more loudly when you do something like dribble through some of their friends or do something good. They all enjoy it very much. Towards the end I went in to header a ball at the same time one of the opposite sides guys went to kick the ball. I got the ball and he got my face. To my knowledge I have never had a black eye before until now.

Everyone was cheering. The other guy hurt his foot and had to leave the field. I tried like a brave wombat to run in circles holding one eye every now and again but eventually saw the stupid side of this and gave up. The guys were sorry and cheered me all the way to the car.

On the beach where we were eventually camped we had hundreds of locals come sit on the sand a couple of meters away and just stare. Some of the older men realised this wasn’t fun for us and chased the crowd away. That lasted for not too long and they slowly came back. One good thing not understanding another person because of the language barrier is that you just shake your arms shrug. No comprehendo. Especially at the police. They leave eventually.

It is interesting when you start to rig out things all over the place to get a bit of privacy for the toilet. They just don’t know when to leave. One thing they definitely enjoyed was when I got a blacksmith to make a spear for me. With lots of frustration I managed to at least get him to understand what I wanted and the fun began. Most of the older men came to see the commotion and hours later with a million ideas I had a spear with a shaft fitted. The locals on the beach ran away when I came back. From then on when we were hounded I took out the spear. Jokingly I would try to get one to stand on one side for target practice but they all ran. From now on I think I will get a spear made everywhere.

While there the police came to the area to check the nets which are illegal. The women ran into the bushes so often with these nets and then came back when the all clear was given. The cops came out the bushes and impounded a boat with the catch. Two minutes after the cops left the beach the guys were out fishing again.

We were sad to leave but there is more to see.

Sunset on the Mozambique coast is spectacular.